dining dutch

image courtesy of The New York Times; NYTCREDIT: Evan Sung for The New York Times

early last fall, a friend won tickets to a taping of the martha stewart show and i was fortunate enough to tag along. martha looked great, the confetti system piƱata she had on set became my new obsession, but it was guest chef andrew carmellini who really stole the show. and though i know enough to take martha’s word for it, i’ve had a hankering to try his cooking for myself ever since.

i had always heard great things about locanda verde‘s rustic italian cuisine but when the dutch opened recently i knew i had to, um, bite the bullet. returning to his american roots for his latest restaurant, carmellini culled inspiration from what “american” means right now, and singularly, what it means in new york city: a melting pot of culture & tradition, spices & innovation. table for two, please!

my guest and i arrived for what carmellini (and my grandmother) endearingly calls “supper”. i washed down the complimentary jalapeno cornbread with a bermuda yacht-club cocktail that hit just the right note, before digging in to some apps: crispy artichokes on a bed of roasted red peppers and onions, an eggplant dip with savory crackers. for the main event, i practically cleaned the bowl once filled with delicious black cod and smoked mushrooms in a yuzu-chili broth while my companion enjoyed his perfectly prepped sea scallops with sweet corn and chipotle (hold the bacon, he’s a veg). we had barely managed to save room for dessert but with that week’s heatwave, three scoops of sorbet – apricot, blueberry, and my favorite, coconut – were too perfect to pass up.

reservations strongly recommended.

~ jamie

tags: , , , , , , ,

Leave a Reply